ALSO POSTED ON QCUIAG!

Just spotted two new cameras on the Fuji website, there is the IS1 which appears to be based on the camera I have, the S9600 and the IS Pro which is based on the S5 DSLR. They all have sensitivity in the IR and UV ranges, the IS Pro states capturing light range of approx.
380nm – 1000nm so it looks like it passes the 656.5nm wavelength of Hydrogen Alpha.

If you are interested the links are here:

IS1 Here
IS Pro Here

I had been thinking about buying a Fuji S5 DSLR in the new year, but was not keen on having to modify it to pass the usefull wavelengths, looks like I wont have to now. Maybe a new Astroimaging specific camera to replace the Cannon 20Da. Or am I barking up the wrong tree here?

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51° 25.787' N
2° 44.485' W

My Collection:
Dollond Naturlux 10x50 5deg bins
Sky Watcher Explorer 6" f/8 Newtonian with Moonlite Stepper driven Crayford on HEQ5 Pro SynScan mount.
Telrad Finder.
Selection of SLR lenses: 400mm f/6.3, 300mm f/5.5, 200mm f/3.5 & 135mm f/2.8
Fuji S9600 Camera (non SLR)
Philips SPC900NC
Atik 16IC-S & Awaiting a Atik motorised filter wheel with Astronomik LRGB filters...

http://www.ryan-astro.co.uk

Don't use a refractor with these without blocking filters. That range is far beyond even what a Tak (see below for a possible exception), Tele Vue, TMB, Astro Physics etc. premium refactor maker can bring to focus at once.

Looking at their specs only the new FSQ might have a chance of working with this camera without blocking filters. The old one certainly won't.

This is mostly a reflector camera. Keep in mind astmospheric refraction when using these as well.

Sometimes wide is too wide and this may be one of them.

Rick

Surely though it is better to have a camera that can detect a wider range than you would normaly need, and then filter out the wavelenghts that you dont want.

What i dont want to do is spend a fortune on a DSLR and have to risk taking it apart to remove the filter in front of the CCD/CMOS sensor. I woud much prefer to buy a brand new camera than a second hand one, so for me this pretty much fits my requirements.

Oh and i will be using my 6" newtonian as the main scope for the forseeable future, and will invest in a William Optics ZenithStar 66 SD APO or ZenithStar 80 SD APO in probably about 6 months for use as both a guide scope and a portable scope.

__________________
51° 25.787' N
2° 44.485' W

My Collection:
Dollond Naturlux 10x50 5deg bins
Sky Watcher Explorer 6" f/8 Newtonian with Moonlite Stepper driven Crayford on HEQ5 Pro SynScan mount.
Telrad Finder.
Selection of SLR lenses: 400mm f/6.3, 300mm f/5.5, 200mm f/3.5 & 135mm f/2.8
Fuji S9600 Camera (non SLR)
Philips SPC900NC
Atik 16IC-S & Awaiting a Atik motorised filter wheel with Astronomik LRGB filters...

http://www.ryan-astro.co.uk

That's what I was saying, without the filters the stars will be very bloated with severe problems at both ends of the spectrum when used with lenses. Several in the local club found that out the hard way.

Rick

Ok, i'll bear that in mind whilst i make my decision, i'm unsure what setup i will get, its between DSLR and an astro specific camera such as an Artemis/Atik or one of the mid/upper range starlight Xpress cameras.

obviously the DSLR is cheaper than the artemis/Atik/starlight xpress options, but i guess the Astro specific cameras will be a lot more sensitive with their monochrome sensors. Is the difference between DSLR and an astro specific camera going to be worth the extra money?

__________________
51° 25.787' N
2° 44.485' W

My Collection:
Dollond Naturlux 10x50 5deg bins
Sky Watcher Explorer 6" f/8 Newtonian with Moonlite Stepper driven Crayford on HEQ5 Pro SynScan mount.
Telrad Finder.
Selection of SLR lenses: 400mm f/6.3, 300mm f/5.5, 200mm f/3.5 & 135mm f/2.8
Fuji S9600 Camera (non SLR)
Philips SPC900NC
Atik 16IC-S & Awaiting a Atik motorised filter wheel with Astronomik LRGB filters...

http://www.ryan-astro.co.uk