I'm a new member here. I just purchased an ETX-125 and would like to use it with my pro DSLR's. (I'm a pro photographer so I might as well get double usage out of the camera bodies, right?) Tonight was my second night out with the new ETX-125 and when I set it up with the T-adapter for my Canon DSLR, all I was able to capture were black screens. NOTHING! I surely must be doing something wrong that is simple to fix. Yes, I had the mirror flipped up for viewing through the regular viewfinder. I was trying to capture the moon, which just about filled the field of view. No way I could have missed it unless I was doing something stupid. I even tried various ISO settings and ss/ap settings. Still, nothing but black. HELP!

OK, 16 views and no replies. Hopefully, someone will be able to help. I'm sure it's something stupid and in my impatience I missed some crucial detail. Thank you in advance for anyone who can help.

KrisG...welcome to BAUT!

Please be patient.

You are rubbing shoulders with fantastically talented BAUTers. They are all out watching the skies. Soon they will be back. They will help you with your questions.

I don't know anything about the Canon dslr, so i can hardly comment to assist. (you've got a pretty good scope, hanh)

Just relax for now. ok?

And don't forget to show us the 'first light' results.

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clear skies

Hi

I dont have a cannon or anything like this but I wonder are you sure that your focus is correct. Make sure that you switch off autofocus.

Hope this helps


DB

Thank you for the replies. I was using the scope for prime focus photography so I had the DSLR connected to the back end of the scope with an adapter. Does that help you know what I was trying to do?

My focus was fine with the scope- I could see the moon very clearly through the regular viewfinder.

Am I supposed to cover the viewfinder somehow?

Sorry for all the questions- patience is not one of my more plentiful qualities. I am very grateful for finding this wonderful online community for support.

Hi KrisG. I have an ETX but have not tried prime focus photography. I have tried afocal (through the eyepiece) to some limited success. Have you checked out Michael Weasner's site: http://www.weasner.com/etx/menu.html

There you can find many links leading to tips, advice, and examples for ETX astrophotography. Hope it helps.


One more thing - I assume if you remove the camera body and look through the adapter with the flip mirror in the right position, you can at least view a blurred image, light or something other than blackness. If you can not, perhaps the mirror is not flipping as you assume.

Hmmm 66 views and no acknowledgment. Drat!

I don't think I have the right attachment to hook up the camera to the eyepiece. I have the T adapter and the correct adapter for Canon cameras. I'm putting the camera on the end of the scope body- not the eyepiece. I know it's possible, but obviously I'm not doing it correctly. From what I've read thus far, you need a "nosepiece adapter" to put the camera body on the eyepiece area? Please forgive my ignorance as I am new to all of this. Thank you!

Hi Kris,
I am not familiar with the ETX, but I have done some imaging with a Canon 10D and a refractror. I can't think of anyting that would cause what you are describing, especially, if you are able to see the moon in focus through the viewfinder, which means you are in the range of your focal plane. While you will most likely recieve some good counsel from this group, you might also want to check out a forum that specializes in DSLR Astrophotography. They might be able to give you some ideas as well. Their website is: http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/digital_astro/

I used to post there regularly a few years ago when I was using my Canon 10D to image. You may also want to check out "Images Plus" software of you continue down this path. It works great for controlling DSLRs (ie focusing, capturing) as well as processing your raw images.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help with your immediate problem. Good luck!

Kent

I'll give the tech group at yahoo a try. Thank you for the info!

So I get on the phone with Meade this afternoon... They have me set the whole thing up... I figure out what I was doing wrong (true DUH moment) and then when I go to take the T adapter off the back cell of the scope, the screw thread from the back cell comes out with the T adapter, in one piece. Yep, they were stuck together and it pulled out. So I gasp and the lady from Meade asked me what was wrong. I explain what I'm seeing and she tells me that I have to send the scope back to Meade for repair which will take a month!

I should also mention that directly before this whole fiasco, I purchased an ETX-90 from eBay which had no cables, no tripod, no autostar controller, no software disc, no manual, and dirty as can be when it arrived. I am in the process of getting a refund for that through a paypal dispute.

So my little adventure into astronomy and astrophotography pretty much sucks at this point. Any advice, encouragement or thoughts for a frustrated newbie?

Buy from a quality manufacturer and a reputable dealer. Any good dealer (Oceanside Photo & Telescope, Scope City, Adirondack Video Astronomy, Anacortes Wild Bird and Telescope to name a few) will be able help you with connecting the camera to the scope. Their expert advice is well worth any premium you might pay vs. eBay.

Don't give up. The joy of viewing the sky through a quality telescope or capturing images is great, and something you can build on for years.

Just tell yourself you've gotten the Murphy's Law incidents out of the way!

And we all have problems. When I got my CGE, I couldn't understand why it wasn't tracking until I realized that with my wake up and set-up at 4am I have forgotten both the counterweight shaft and counterweight. I'm lucky I didn't damage the motors. Or when it would not move properly because I had interchanged Dec and RA cables. Or when I almost disassembled my NP-101 trying to get a motorized focuser attached. To name a few.

Clear skies,

--Andy

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Observatorio de la Ballona

I bought from www.astronomics.com via a phone call. I saw their ad in Sky and Telescope, I believe. Are they a reputable dealer? The ETX-125 was brand new. Just Murphy's Law, I guess, like you said.

BUMMER!

At least we'll be on vacation for two weeks and I can use up some of that repair/return time that way so it won't seem like so long!

I bought from Astronomics via phone. I saw their ad in an astronomy magazine (don't remember which one). Are they good to purchase from? Being so new to this, I just don't know which dealers are good and which are not...

I'll be on vacation for two weeks so hopefully the waiting will not be so bad due to that. Also, it seems as though it would be a simple repair so maybe it won't take the whole 30 days that they quoted me? I can hope, right? I've certainly been through enough to get to this point!

I believe Astronomics are a fine dealer although I have not dealt with them. I'm sure they'd be willing to work through any camera to scope connections over the phone too. And you have a fine scope.

I am fortunate enough not to have had a repair experience to compare turnaround. If I were in customer service though, I'd be sure to under-promise and over-deliver.

--Andy

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Observatorio de la Ballona

Hi Kris.
First of all wellcome to the forum. I have an etx 125 and I love this scope, but I went through 3 scopes before I got one that worked right. Dont give up on the etx 125, once you get it working for you its a great scope.

I hope you are using the top viewing port when conecting the camera, I feel the camera my be alittle heavy for this scope so when the scope is moving keep an eye out for gear slip, also never over tighten the clutch to compensate for the camera weight.

I use a sac 7 ccd and a sony cybershot 7 with this scope, it likes the weight. I have used slr cameras and quickly gave the idea up. Good luck with the scope it is one of the best 5 inch scopes on the market. I now have an 8 inch vixen vmc200l with the star book goto but I still use my etx alot and I will never part with it.
Clear skies to you. Paul

Hmmmmmmm, what was your experience with aligning the scope with the red dot finder? Sometimes there is no red dot. Like nothing there at all. Bizarre. No way to turn it off and on either. I found that odd.

I also only had about five hours or so on eight batteries. They weren't top of the line alkalines or rechargeables either. Just regular AA's. I thought the battery life was kind of short.

So someone mentioned do not overtighten the scope to compensate for camera weight... What kind of counterweight system would you recommend then?

Ohhhh, I am NOT using the top viewing port. I am using the back "cell" as Meade describes it. Is that bad? How expensive is it to go the other route?

I'm a pro photographer so I spend a lot on my camera gear. I would really like to use my Canon pro DSLR's if at all possible. To jump into a $1000 scope and put a cheapie digicam on it for astrophotography seems to miss the point for me. Am I wrong here? If the weight of the DSLR is an issue, could counterweights work to effectively balance the scope without causing problems with the inner mechanics of the base unit?

Hey kris.
With the etx 125 you must make your own counter weight system. On the bottom of the scope you can see a small square area with two 1/4 inch hole, you can add weight there using fender washers and a bolt. When using a heavy camera on the etx 125 there is a lot of guess work involved on where to put/add the counter weight.

I will not take anything away from the new dslr cameras they do a super job, but if you explore this form you will find lots of folks who use ccd cameras. You will find that the etx 125 does a better job at doing ccd avi work, which is short movies then doing single shot photos which is what your camera does The reason is because of how the 125 tracks objects. It is not the best tracking scope in the world it is better known for its visual work.

I do not have a red dot system on my scope I did at one time but not now. You may have to adjust/align the red dot system that is on your scope, if it is not working for you.. Do your self a favor and buy a ac converter for this scope and forget about the battery case. You can get one on e-bay very cheap. Save you alot of head aches.

Kris I have had my etx 125 scope for 5 years now, I have sent it out to Dr. Clay Sherrod twice now for tune ups. They do what is call a super charge/work over of the scope. He and his team are the best people I know who can and will make your scope perform at its best, better then when you bought it from Meade.

If I can be of any help to you and your etx 125 please let me know, you can e-mail me. Remenber about the weight thing if you dont have it right it will kill the scope drives. I can send you some photos of a counter weight device that I made for my etx when I was trying to use a slr camera. I had luck with it but you always had to keep an eye on the tracking. Buy a good ccd camera and you will not have any problems with this scope. Trust me.

One more thing when using this scope learn to use it in polar mode it will track better then alt/az. Clear skies to you Paul

I would love to see the photos of the counterweight system and any information on where you sent the scope for the tune up.

My email is on file with the forum here. If you have any problems with that, let me know and I'll send you my email address directly.

Hi Kriss

Sorry to hear you are having such trouble with your scope

As for the red dot finder, you turn it off from the autostar. I think (going on memory) it is the "0" at the bottom with a symbol of a light. Also you need to adjust the red dot by turning the screws on the LNT so that it lines up with aligning object. There is also a plastic lense that the red dot is supposed to shine onto. Do you have this item? Having said that my first lnt unit had a fault and the little tube that sends out the light became detached and it had to go back.

Batteries.... As Paul mentioned before, scopes tend to eat batteries. Also a goto scope requires a good supply of power in order to function correctly otherwise strange things will begin to happen with tracking, gotos etc. Ordinary AA batteries are just too unreliable and not to mention expensive. You should invest in a "power tank". This is effectively a jump start battery with a cigarette lighter adaptor. This fully charged should power your scope all night and more.

CCD V DSLR... Well a lot can be said for both. But IMHO the problem with a dslr is that in order to get the best out of them for astro photography you will need to have them modified. As you know the ccd chip is more sensitive to infrared and ultraviolet light then the human eye and for this reason the manufacturers usually put in a special filter to block out this excess. Otherwise your normal shots would tend to look kinda pinkish. But for shots of nebulas etc you really do need to capture all of this light or your shots will look kinda tame. So folks have modified their cameras by removing the filter and replaceing it with a clear one. This means you cant really use it for terestrial work unless you then buy an expensive extra filter. The thought of ruining a beautiful camera in this way just didnt appeal to me. Also as they are not cooled DSLRs will tend to be noisier, which means flats, darks etc. The great advantage of them is the field of view and the number of pixels.

Some entry level CCDS are now quite reasonably priced and can deliver some lovely shots.


Hope this helps

DB