I actually picked up a Meade 114 telescope at a yard sale. The tube was a little banged up, but the mirrors are just fine !
My telescope was marked "electronic control", but there was nothing attached to the scope that would have allowed ANY KIND of clock drive whatsoever.
You mention the shaking that your scope exhibits. That is pretty normal for a scope of that size with an inexpensive plastic and lightweight aluminum tripod.
I just recently bought a used German Eq mount from a friend who was upgrading to a heavier mount, and that mount turned the scope from a mere toy to a real solid viewing tool ! For your information, the mount is an Orion Skyview Pro, which is actually capable of handling a much heavier scope than the little Meade. But there is almost no shaking with that mount, even though I usually use the scope on a wooden deck that is about 10 feet above the ground! You will probably spend more money for a German Eq mount alone than you did for the entire scope, but I consider it to be well worth the money !
However, I cannot answer your questions about computer assisted drives, since my mount is a simple motorized clock drive with manual setting circles. Ya gotta use a star map with it !
However, concerning eyepieces, barlows, etc. I might be of more help to you.
My scope came with a 25mm Plossl, which gives just about a degree of sky in the viewing window. This is enough magnification to include the full surface of the moon and some dark sky around the outside edges. A planet such as Jupiter is very small with this eyepiece, and as you have seen, the Jovian moons are just little points of light. The actual magnification with this eyepiece is only about 36X
As you get a shorter and shorter FL eyepiece, the magnification goes up, but the field of view ( FOV ) becomes narrower and narrower, and the image you are viewing will tend to get fuzzier and fuzzier!
About the shortest FL eyepiece I can normally use with that scope is around a 7.5 mm. With the main mirror's FL of 910mm you get a magnification of 121 X
Not only does the FOV become narrower, but the stars and planets become dimmer and fuzzier. 121X is really pushing the optics of a scope that size, and I have found an eyepiece around 12mm to be much better for all around viewing. That is just about exactly 100X which seems to be almost ideal for that scope. With that magnification, you can just barely see the difference in the size of the moons, but they don't quite resolve into actual balls with any dimension. You would probably have to go to a 12 or 15 inch scope to do that with any certainty.
A good barlow lens will give you more magnification with any given eyepiece, without sacrificing eye relief, the distance between the lens and your eyeball. However, it could be very easy to go beyond that optimum magnification by getting too powerful a barlow.
A lot of people do not understand that many of the objects out there are not all that small, but the problem is the brightness, or lack thereof. M31, is almost a couple of degrees across ( ! ) but very dim, and requires a lot of FOV in order to see well.
The same type of thing goes for the Lagoon, The Great Oriion, and many other deep sky objects. You will probably find that your two lenses are not a good fit for most of the deep sky objects you are likely to encounter. Again, I find a 12 to be an excellent all-around eyepiece, and unless you want to pay a LOT of money for something like a University wide angle eyepiece, I would strongly consider a nice Plossl in that FL range.
Hope this helps !
Clear skies, Jim
Last edited by jim_ag3y; 23-October-2009 at 07:09 PM..
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